It's Thursday evening, and we're in St. Louis, within striking distance of home. Evie is out visiting with a friend from Japanese camp, so we have a few minutes before we have to go pick her up again.
With the Aikido portion of the trip behind us and lots of time on our hands, we've started to reflect on what we have experienced. Our Aikido of Madison dojo mates will surely hear some of this, but one of the biggest things that we've been talking about is what it means to welcome visitors to your dojo. We had a range of experiences, and it's given us ideas about how we could be good hosts.
We also experienced a broad spectrum of ukemi, and it has helped us (probably more me than Evie, who doesn't have a lot of problems in the ukemi department) to clarify the kind of partner I want to be.
Technique-wise, we both have things that we thought were fun or interesting or worth sharing. While a library of techniques and variations is useful and nice to have (or it seems to be in Evie's case--I don't really have one yet), there are some bigger ideas that I think I will be focusing on, one of which is a greater emphasis on irimi, or entering. Nevelius Sensei had some demonstrations that really shows the value of it and I'll be doing some practice drills to beat it into my body.
I also feel that Nevelius's concept of the meeting place, and its corollary the axis of the meeting, really resonated with me. It's quite different from the Mary Heiny Sensei/Linda Holiday Sensei concept of "I am the center of the universe". It just makes more sense to me. The techniques end up looking quite different. Time will tell how well I can integrate the idea into my training.
I was also glad to see that Evie has no trouble finding a welcome for herself in a wide range of dojos. She was counseled once that if you have good etiquette and good ukemi you will be welcome anywhere, and she works hard on both. So as she moves into a phase of her life when she may be traveling around the country and the world, it's great to have confidence that she can make a place for herself.
I'm sure Jen and Evie will have more thoughts as we wrap up the journey, but for now, I'm looking forward to sleeping in our own bed!
Thursday, October 29, 2015
Tuesday, October 27, 2015
Boulder--the last dojo of the trip
We stopped into Boulder Aikikai this evening and attended class with Tres Hoffmeister, 7th Dan Shihan. Evie had met him before at a seminar in Chicago and they had fun playing together. Here are the two of them, with Evie doing something that you should not generally do--throw a shihan. It's just not done. . .
Not really a big deal in this case, because Tres Sensei actually takes a lot of ukemi. He's kind of unbelievably young for someone of his rank--he's somewhere in his early 50s, and his "real job" is as a Feldenkrais teacher, so his whole thing is about keeping and increasing body movement. So he's super spry, and has a very collegial relationship with his students.
Somewhat incredibly, he is not the chief instructor at the dojo. That would be Hiroshi Ikeda Shihan, who was out of town (in Japan) teaching a seminar (which is no surprise, since he teaches all over the world practically every weekend). The dojo has a balcony level with couches and a great expansive view of the training area. It also appears to function as overflow space from Ikeda Sensei's garage, holding boxes of books and old calligraphy, as well as a set of snow tires and other assorted things. We also saw this:
I love it so much because almost any Aikido person could tell you at a glance that it is Ikeda Sensei, even without the type. He has such a distinctive way about him that he's unmistakable.
So as for the dojo, Tres Sensei is a man of few words, and his style of running class is very long intervals between instruction, meaning that you work a particular technique for quite a while before you have a break. This little detail matters because Evie and I both forgot one key detail--we've been training at sea level for 10 days and now we are at 5,000 feet. Jeepers, I thought I was going to pass out!
The folks here throw hard. It's just their thing. Ikeda Sensei throws hard, so we figure it's just part of the culture of the dojo. But it can make for a short career, which is part of Evie's interest in soft ukemi.
Here's a little comparison for you. The first clip is a traditional "hard fall". The second is a Jan Nevelius-style "feather fall". Both are from the same throw. Which would you want to do over and over for the next several years?
The woman in the hard fall video said that Evie's ukemi left her feeling like "a sack of potatoes" in comparison (even funnier since she has a French accent).
As usual, Evie got compliments on how soft her ukemi is, and I got compliments on how soft my uniform is. Both are deserved--my gi really is very soft!
Tomorrow: Kansas!
Somewhat incredibly, he is not the chief instructor at the dojo. That would be Hiroshi Ikeda Shihan, who was out of town (in Japan) teaching a seminar (which is no surprise, since he teaches all over the world practically every weekend). The dojo has a balcony level with couches and a great expansive view of the training area. It also appears to function as overflow space from Ikeda Sensei's garage, holding boxes of books and old calligraphy, as well as a set of snow tires and other assorted things. We also saw this:
So as for the dojo, Tres Sensei is a man of few words, and his style of running class is very long intervals between instruction, meaning that you work a particular technique for quite a while before you have a break. This little detail matters because Evie and I both forgot one key detail--we've been training at sea level for 10 days and now we are at 5,000 feet. Jeepers, I thought I was going to pass out!
The folks here throw hard. It's just their thing. Ikeda Sensei throws hard, so we figure it's just part of the culture of the dojo. But it can make for a short career, which is part of Evie's interest in soft ukemi.
Here's a little comparison for you. The first clip is a traditional "hard fall". The second is a Jan Nevelius-style "feather fall". Both are from the same throw. Which would you want to do over and over for the next several years?
The woman in the hard fall video said that Evie's ukemi left her feeling like "a sack of potatoes" in comparison (even funnier since she has a French accent).
As usual, Evie got compliments on how soft her ukemi is, and I got compliments on how soft my uniform is. Both are deserved--my gi really is very soft!
Tomorrow: Kansas!
Monday, October 26, 2015
Santa Cruz through Wyoming, an alternative view
A different view of the weekend and our departure from California.
The weekend at Santa Cruz was great. The chief instructor is Linda Holiday Sensei, who visited Madison last year and made a strong impression on all of us. The most striking thing is how natural her Aikido movement looks. I sort of feel that if you made a movie of her training and through the magic of computers were to delete her partner from the picture, it would not look strange. She would just be sort of wandering around as if lost in thought.
Holiday Sensei and Nevelius Sensei co-taught throughout the weekend, and their ideas bounced back and forth. It was really interesting to see the interplay, because their approaches, at a basic level, have some significant differences. They both share an emphasis on softness, though, which is probably one of the reasons that they both appeal so strongly to Evie. She was fortunate to take ukemi for both of them during class, and as Evie has noted, each joined the class when the other was teaching. This meant that some lucky folks got special time with some folks who are not only very accomplished Aikido practitioners, but are also excellent teachers.
Here's a picture of Evie in a one-on-one with Nevelius Sensei. The Santa Cruz dojo has a separate small room off the main training space, which was a nice place for 2 pairs to practice away from the crowded main mat.
After class he grabbed her again, apparently just for some play time, because he didn't say anything. Here he is pulling off one of the most difficult feats in the martial arts--pinning Evie:
She's very hard to pin because she has a freaky combination of super strength and incredible flexibility. I have seen people (in good fun) pin her with a knee on her neck or by grabbing her ponytail. I asked if she was truly pinned and she said that she couldn't move, but it didn't hurt at all. That's the holy grail. For most of us, the pin becomes a submission hold and the person taps when they can't take the pain anymore. I guess we all need to keep practicing. . .
Another great day of training on Sunday, with the sensei exchanging meaningful gifts at the end, which I have to say I find extremely moving. I've seen Nevelius Sensei present gifts to some people on this trip, and they are always very personal and thoughtful.
Once we finished up, we hit the road promptly for Reno. We crashed with one of my college housemates, with whom we've not kept up very well since he was in our wedding many years ago. It was great to re-connect even if for a short time. Then we made an early start and drove across all of Nevada and Utah (both the short way!). When Buzz Aldrin looked out at the surface of the moon, he called it "magnificent desolation". He may as well have been talking about Nevada:
This was the Forty Mile Desert, a desolate and dreaded portion of the California Trail used by gold rushers and settlers. No water for 40 miles, there are over 900 graves along the way, and there were thousands of skeletons of mules, horses, oxen, and other work animals. I thought the landscape was fascinating, but it was a bit too lonely for Jen.
With Nevada in the rear-view, next came Utah. The Bonneville Salt Flats are in fact very salty, as demonstrated by this salt refinery with a giant mountain of salt sitting outside. We saw many operations of this scale:
They're also very flat! We did not see any rocket cars going for a land-speed record.
We stopped for a great Indian dinner in Salt Lake City and pushed on to our current location--Evanston, Wyoming. Tomorrow we're going to Boulder for more bakery goodness and more Aikido. We have decided not to stop for Aikido in Denver--we just don't have enough hours in the day to fit both in.
The weekend at Santa Cruz was great. The chief instructor is Linda Holiday Sensei, who visited Madison last year and made a strong impression on all of us. The most striking thing is how natural her Aikido movement looks. I sort of feel that if you made a movie of her training and through the magic of computers were to delete her partner from the picture, it would not look strange. She would just be sort of wandering around as if lost in thought.
Holiday Sensei and Nevelius Sensei co-taught throughout the weekend, and their ideas bounced back and forth. It was really interesting to see the interplay, because their approaches, at a basic level, have some significant differences. They both share an emphasis on softness, though, which is probably one of the reasons that they both appeal so strongly to Evie. She was fortunate to take ukemi for both of them during class, and as Evie has noted, each joined the class when the other was teaching. This meant that some lucky folks got special time with some folks who are not only very accomplished Aikido practitioners, but are also excellent teachers.
Here's a picture of Evie in a one-on-one with Nevelius Sensei. The Santa Cruz dojo has a separate small room off the main training space, which was a nice place for 2 pairs to practice away from the crowded main mat.
After class he grabbed her again, apparently just for some play time, because he didn't say anything. Here he is pulling off one of the most difficult feats in the martial arts--pinning Evie:
Another great day of training on Sunday, with the sensei exchanging meaningful gifts at the end, which I have to say I find extremely moving. I've seen Nevelius Sensei present gifts to some people on this trip, and they are always very personal and thoughtful.
Once we finished up, we hit the road promptly for Reno. We crashed with one of my college housemates, with whom we've not kept up very well since he was in our wedding many years ago. It was great to re-connect even if for a short time. Then we made an early start and drove across all of Nevada and Utah (both the short way!). When Buzz Aldrin looked out at the surface of the moon, he called it "magnificent desolation". He may as well have been talking about Nevada:
With Nevada in the rear-view, next came Utah. The Bonneville Salt Flats are in fact very salty, as demonstrated by this salt refinery with a giant mountain of salt sitting outside. We saw many operations of this scale:
We stopped for a great Indian dinner in Salt Lake City and pushed on to our current location--Evanston, Wyoming. Tomorrow we're going to Boulder for more bakery goodness and more Aikido. We have decided not to stop for Aikido in Denver--we just don't have enough hours in the day to fit both in.
Aikido Of The Week
Thursday
All of the evening classes throughout California were great, but many of us agreed that Thursday at Two Rock Aikido was probably the best. Some of the stuff that Jan Sensei had been saying throughout the classes started to click for me, and it was a great group of training partners.
There was one woman there wearing a white belt and hakama whom everyone seemed to know. I didn’t get a chance to work with her during class, but we were folding our hakama next to each other at the end. We started chatting, and the fact that I was from Madison came up. I still didn’t know her name. She mentioned knowing John and Robin Sensei, and said she had somewhat recently been to Wisconsin visiting Eric Novak Sensei’s dojo in West Bend. It turned out she grew up in Milwaukee, we knew tons of the same people, blah blah blah. She had on a relatively new white belt, and I hadn’t seen her train much. Eventually she asked me if I want to “roll around a little bit”. Keep in mind this was after a full two hour class, but I wasn’t about to say no to that. She couldn’t fall because of an injury, but it was no problem, I took all the ukemi. We started training, and I was thinking “There’s no way she’s new”. It was super fun, she was really connected and smooth, and we practiced for probably almost five minutes. Afterwards she goes, “Tell Robin and John that Jamie Z. says hello”. And then it hit me. THIS IS JAMIE ZIMRON! She’s the golfing sensei! And she’s a 5th dan! OH MY GOD! But I restrained myself, and let her know how much some of the members of our dojo enjoyed her class in West Bend (the class that she previously neglected to mention that she taught).
After that experience, I asked Jan Sensei a question about one of the techniques we did that night, and got an even-better-than-expected answer.
The Two Rocks Aikido dojo is gorgeous. Out on Richard Strozzi-Heckler Sensei’s ranch, all the buildings are built like log cabins, there are tons of windows, and rosemary grows everywhere. The mat was pretty small, but we made it work. Lots of line throws. The weird thing was, there are no changing rooms, so everyone just changes in the dojo.
Friday
Class at Aikido of Tamalpais. After our extensive walking and eating of the day, I was really excited for class. Although the classes of the last few days were certainly not identical, they had a similar theme. In Tamalpais, however, Sensei started to change things a little bit (maybe in preparation for the weekend with Linda Sensei?). He did an exercise from shomenuchi where you enter, turn, and cut with uke. Then bring them around and “touch their center”. You don’t literally touch it, but use the connection through both of your hands as a bridge. I really liked this as an ukemi exercise, as well as a different entry from shomen than we usually do. Something that we often don’t realize as nage is that in many cases, when you can get uke’s balance, they can also get yours. Jan Sensei often talks about “researching” techniques. When you practice something new, it won’t be, and shouldn’t be, effective right away. In training, we often try to go off the line and be protected, but you learn the most in the vulnerable places. He talked about how the top of a mountain is both the most dangerous, and the most interesting place.
First in Seattle, and then again later, Jan Sensei was talking about “pure” technique, kata, or kihon waza. One of his goals is to not have to undo anything. You put your feet and hands exactly where they need to be, have balance in the right place, etc. Then, when you have solid kihon waza, you start experimenting with spacing, pushing and drawing, stepping or foot changes, and that’s when it gets interesting. This is back to the idea of researching.
The Weekend
Okay. So we got to Linda Holiday Sensei’s dojo Aikido of Santa Cruz at about 9:00 Saturday morning after an early drive from Berkeley, thinking class was at 10:00. It was at 10:30. Now, I love being early. Arriving at a seminar less than 45 minutes early makes me nervous. But an hour and a half is a little excessive. Luckily, the dojo is gorgeous, they have an extensive Aikido library, and nice squishy couches.
When I saw that Jan Sensei and Linda Sensei would be co-teaching half of the classes, I was really excited. They taught some of my favorite seminars of the past year. What I didn’t realize is that when one was teaching, THE OTHER ONE WAS TRAINING! So while one 6th dan was teaching an amazing class, the other one was just practicing with everyone else. I had taken a fair amount of ukemi from Jan Sensei in the previous couple days, so I was getting relatively familiar with his nage waza, but it was really interesting to see his ukemi as well. Jan Sensei and Linda Sensei are both definitely among the people whose ukemi makes your technique better, and when they throw, you can do ukemi beyond your normal skill. It was really interesting to see such a distinction in Linda Sensei’s Shingu style, to what we had been seeing all week from Jan Sensei.
Linda Sensei was continuing the theme of a bridge between uke’s and nage’s centers with some of the exercises she was doing. The contrasts between the two sensei was particularly clearly illustrated when they did the same exercise: when Linda Sensei throws you, it feels like you got scooped up and spit out by a tornado, and when Jan Sensei throws you, it feels like a trapdoor opened up beneath your feet. And yet even with all the variation, the two styles and teaching methods complement each other really well.
There’s still lots to absorb, so there will certainly be more to come!
All of the evening classes throughout California were great, but many of us agreed that Thursday at Two Rock Aikido was probably the best. Some of the stuff that Jan Sensei had been saying throughout the classes started to click for me, and it was a great group of training partners.
There was one woman there wearing a white belt and hakama whom everyone seemed to know. I didn’t get a chance to work with her during class, but we were folding our hakama next to each other at the end. We started chatting, and the fact that I was from Madison came up. I still didn’t know her name. She mentioned knowing John and Robin Sensei, and said she had somewhat recently been to Wisconsin visiting Eric Novak Sensei’s dojo in West Bend. It turned out she grew up in Milwaukee, we knew tons of the same people, blah blah blah. She had on a relatively new white belt, and I hadn’t seen her train much. Eventually she asked me if I want to “roll around a little bit”. Keep in mind this was after a full two hour class, but I wasn’t about to say no to that. She couldn’t fall because of an injury, but it was no problem, I took all the ukemi. We started training, and I was thinking “There’s no way she’s new”. It was super fun, she was really connected and smooth, and we practiced for probably almost five minutes. Afterwards she goes, “Tell Robin and John that Jamie Z. says hello”. And then it hit me. THIS IS JAMIE ZIMRON! She’s the golfing sensei! And she’s a 5th dan! OH MY GOD! But I restrained myself, and let her know how much some of the members of our dojo enjoyed her class in West Bend (the class that she previously neglected to mention that she taught).
After that experience, I asked Jan Sensei a question about one of the techniques we did that night, and got an even-better-than-expected answer.
The Two Rocks Aikido dojo is gorgeous. Out on Richard Strozzi-Heckler Sensei’s ranch, all the buildings are built like log cabins, there are tons of windows, and rosemary grows everywhere. The mat was pretty small, but we made it work. Lots of line throws. The weird thing was, there are no changing rooms, so everyone just changes in the dojo.
Friday
Class at Aikido of Tamalpais. After our extensive walking and eating of the day, I was really excited for class. Although the classes of the last few days were certainly not identical, they had a similar theme. In Tamalpais, however, Sensei started to change things a little bit (maybe in preparation for the weekend with Linda Sensei?). He did an exercise from shomenuchi where you enter, turn, and cut with uke. Then bring them around and “touch their center”. You don’t literally touch it, but use the connection through both of your hands as a bridge. I really liked this as an ukemi exercise, as well as a different entry from shomen than we usually do. Something that we often don’t realize as nage is that in many cases, when you can get uke’s balance, they can also get yours. Jan Sensei often talks about “researching” techniques. When you practice something new, it won’t be, and shouldn’t be, effective right away. In training, we often try to go off the line and be protected, but you learn the most in the vulnerable places. He talked about how the top of a mountain is both the most dangerous, and the most interesting place.
First in Seattle, and then again later, Jan Sensei was talking about “pure” technique, kata, or kihon waza. One of his goals is to not have to undo anything. You put your feet and hands exactly where they need to be, have balance in the right place, etc. Then, when you have solid kihon waza, you start experimenting with spacing, pushing and drawing, stepping or foot changes, and that’s when it gets interesting. This is back to the idea of researching.
The Weekend
Okay. So we got to Linda Holiday Sensei’s dojo Aikido of Santa Cruz at about 9:00 Saturday morning after an early drive from Berkeley, thinking class was at 10:00. It was at 10:30. Now, I love being early. Arriving at a seminar less than 45 minutes early makes me nervous. But an hour and a half is a little excessive. Luckily, the dojo is gorgeous, they have an extensive Aikido library, and nice squishy couches.
When I saw that Jan Sensei and Linda Sensei would be co-teaching half of the classes, I was really excited. They taught some of my favorite seminars of the past year. What I didn’t realize is that when one was teaching, THE OTHER ONE WAS TRAINING! So while one 6th dan was teaching an amazing class, the other one was just practicing with everyone else. I had taken a fair amount of ukemi from Jan Sensei in the previous couple days, so I was getting relatively familiar with his nage waza, but it was really interesting to see his ukemi as well. Jan Sensei and Linda Sensei are both definitely among the people whose ukemi makes your technique better, and when they throw, you can do ukemi beyond your normal skill. It was really interesting to see such a distinction in Linda Sensei’s Shingu style, to what we had been seeing all week from Jan Sensei.
Linda Sensei was continuing the theme of a bridge between uke’s and nage’s centers with some of the exercises she was doing. The contrasts between the two sensei was particularly clearly illustrated when they did the same exercise: when Linda Sensei throws you, it feels like you got scooped up and spit out by a tornado, and when Jan Sensei throws you, it feels like a trapdoor opened up beneath your feet. And yet even with all the variation, the two styles and teaching methods complement each other really well.
There’s still lots to absorb, so there will certainly be more to come!
Sunday, October 25, 2015
The pastry--a recap
You got a brief report of our pastry experiences of the last few days, here's the extended version:
Thursday
Arsicault Bakery, croissant and Kouign Amann. Both were fine, but not fantastic.
You already heard about b. patisserie.
(Aikido stories coming soon.)
Friday
The plan was John Pence Gallery to see our neighbor's paintings displayed, Cocoabella chocolates, Nuubia Chocolates, Chantal Guillon macarons, Choux bakery, Thorough Bread and Pastry, The Lab, and Craftsman and Wolves, then off to Aikido.
Here's what really happened:
We went to the gallery, saw the paintings, learned that yellow parking meters mean 30 minutes, all of that went as planned.
Then we were supposed to go to Cocoabella, but couldn't get there between traffic, lack of parking, and construction.
So we got to Nuubia (which happens to be in the lobby of the Twitter building), and parked. We got a calamansi and basil chocolate, an almond-coriander praline, and an "OMG bar" which is hazelnut praline, salted caramel, and caramelized rice crispy dipped in chocolate.
Walking towards Chantal Guillon we happened across Christopher Elbow Chocolates, which I've heard a lot about, but thought we couldn't go to. We started chatting with the person working there and ended up trying Earl Grey, Champagne, and Yuzu chocolates. They were all great. This is the Yuzu:
Off to Chantal Guillon, where we had chocolate orange, salted caramel, and raspberry-rose-lychee macarons. (You might think raspberry, rose, and lychee sounds weird, but it's a thing. Called "Ispahan" it's Pierre Herme's signature flavor.)
Walking to the next bakery, we passed a liquid-nitrogen ice cream place, and of course had to stop. The creme fraiche ice cream with pear caramel was tasty, although I thought the texture would be better.
Next up was Choux bakery, and all-cream puff establishment. Now, none of us really like cream puffs, so this was a little bit of a stretch. The lemon curd filled, and and chocolate pudding filled puffs were both okay, but nothing amazing. The shop was tiny! We could barely all stand inside.
Then to Thorough Bread and Pastry, which supposedly has fantastic almond croissants. Yeah, not so much. It was dry, and had basically no flavor.
And now the tale of The Lab. On a previous trip to San Francisco, we had tried to go there. The Lab is SF-based chocolatier Michael Recchiuti's cafe space and test kitchen. So we're walking down 22nd street, where the map said it was. The neighborhood was looking really different than we remembered, but none of us really thought about it. Trust in Siri! But we got to the address, looked all around, and finally saw the sign: The Massage Lab. Oops. There were some happy, relaxed-looking people leaving, but no chocolate to be found. (There's more to this story, you'll find out soon.)
Next we were off to Craftsman and Wolves, which I had heard about on Yelp, but didn't really know much about. Wow. Probably the non-Aikido highlight of the trip so far. We got a croissant which was quite good, but it seemed awful in comparison to the rest of it. The "stone" was amazing. I liked it, and I hate coffee! It was whipped coffee (??), yuzu, gianduja (which you should look up, but don't pay attention to the Wikipedia page, because it's wrong), and coconut. And so, so much prettiness.
Here's the croissant.
And the hot pepper and smoked cheddar gougere. IT WAS AMAZING!! The texture was perfect, soft and squishy on the inside, with little cheese pockets all over, and a crispy and almost leathery outside.
And here's the Craftsman and Wolves pastry case.
On the way to Craftsman and Wolves, we passed a cute looking frites place and had to stop on the way back, because we were pretty desperate for some salt. Our frites came with ponzu ketchup and orange-ginger mayo. Both were good, although I loved the orange-ginger.
And on the ketchup pump was this sign:
It was quite a place. They were definitely some characters.
So then we walked back to the car, and decided to drive to The Lab to try again. We get there, and what happens? Yep. They're closed for a private event. Nooooooooo! Maybe it's not meant to be. And we couldn't even get a massage this time!
From there we drove to Bodega Bay to see the ocean.
Then off to Aikido of Tamalpais for class. There are many Aikido blog posts to come, but not yet. Right now we're off to day to of class at Aikido of Santa Cruz. Where Linda Sensei and Jan Sensei are taking turns teaching, AND TRAINING WHEN THEY'RE NOT TEACHING! Turns out the two of them aren't 6th dan for nothin'.
Thursday
Arsicault Bakery, croissant and Kouign Amann. Both were fine, but not fantastic.
You already heard about b. patisserie.
Friday
The plan was John Pence Gallery to see our neighbor's paintings displayed, Cocoabella chocolates, Nuubia Chocolates, Chantal Guillon macarons, Choux bakery, Thorough Bread and Pastry, The Lab, and Craftsman and Wolves, then off to Aikido.
Here's what really happened:
We went to the gallery, saw the paintings, learned that yellow parking meters mean 30 minutes, all of that went as planned.
Then we were supposed to go to Cocoabella, but couldn't get there between traffic, lack of parking, and construction.
Walking towards Chantal Guillon we happened across Christopher Elbow Chocolates, which I've heard a lot about, but thought we couldn't go to. We started chatting with the person working there and ended up trying Earl Grey, Champagne, and Yuzu chocolates. They were all great. This is the Yuzu:
Off to Chantal Guillon, where we had chocolate orange, salted caramel, and raspberry-rose-lychee macarons. (You might think raspberry, rose, and lychee sounds weird, but it's a thing. Called "Ispahan" it's Pierre Herme's signature flavor.)
Walking to the next bakery, we passed a liquid-nitrogen ice cream place, and of course had to stop. The creme fraiche ice cream with pear caramel was tasty, although I thought the texture would be better.
Next up was Choux bakery, and all-cream puff establishment. Now, none of us really like cream puffs, so this was a little bit of a stretch. The lemon curd filled, and and chocolate pudding filled puffs were both okay, but nothing amazing. The shop was tiny! We could barely all stand inside.
Then to Thorough Bread and Pastry, which supposedly has fantastic almond croissants. Yeah, not so much. It was dry, and had basically no flavor.
And now the tale of The Lab. On a previous trip to San Francisco, we had tried to go there. The Lab is SF-based chocolatier Michael Recchiuti's cafe space and test kitchen. So we're walking down 22nd street, where the map said it was. The neighborhood was looking really different than we remembered, but none of us really thought about it. Trust in Siri! But we got to the address, looked all around, and finally saw the sign: The Massage Lab. Oops. There were some happy, relaxed-looking people leaving, but no chocolate to be found. (There's more to this story, you'll find out soon.)
Next we were off to Craftsman and Wolves, which I had heard about on Yelp, but didn't really know much about. Wow. Probably the non-Aikido highlight of the trip so far. We got a croissant which was quite good, but it seemed awful in comparison to the rest of it. The "stone" was amazing. I liked it, and I hate coffee! It was whipped coffee (??), yuzu, gianduja (which you should look up, but don't pay attention to the Wikipedia page, because it's wrong), and coconut. And so, so much prettiness.
Here's the croissant.
And here's the Craftsman and Wolves pastry case.
On the way to Craftsman and Wolves, we passed a cute looking frites place and had to stop on the way back, because we were pretty desperate for some salt. Our frites came with ponzu ketchup and orange-ginger mayo. Both were good, although I loved the orange-ginger.
And on the ketchup pump was this sign:
It was quite a place. They were definitely some characters.
So then we walked back to the car, and decided to drive to The Lab to try again. We get there, and what happens? Yep. They're closed for a private event. Nooooooooo! Maybe it's not meant to be. And we couldn't even get a massage this time!
From there we drove to Bodega Bay to see the ocean.
Then off to Aikido of Tamalpais for class. There are many Aikido blog posts to come, but not yet. Right now we're off to day to of class at Aikido of Santa Cruz. Where Linda Sensei and Jan Sensei are taking turns teaching, AND TRAINING WHEN THEY'RE NOT TEACHING! Turns out the two of them aren't 6th dan for nothin'.
Saturday, October 24, 2015
Friday, October 23, 2015
Finishing up in Berkeley
We're packing up today to hit the road again. It's been nice to have a place to spread out our stuff and feel at home in this cozy apartment nestled into the hills. But we have an early morning start to get to Santa Cruz tomorrow, and we'll be home on the late side tonight, so we're basically going to pack everything up this morning.
But first, a re-cap of yesterday.
After our breakfast pastry (noted in yesterday's post), we packed picnic supplies and headed into San Francisco. We went for a medium-length walk to catch some more pastry, the most notable of which was this:
This is what we would consider to be a proper kouign amann from the very exellent b.patisserie. As the pastry has gotten more popular, there have been more and more takes on it. The trend we see in all kinds of food (and maybe not just food) is that somebody homes in on what they think people love about something, the "best part" about it) and they maximize that, often to the detriment of the overall effect. In the case of the kouign amann, people seem to be focusing on the caramelized sugar, which provides a great mix of crunch and chewiness. The result is that many pastries of this type are bordering on sticky buns, which are of course awesome, but a different thing. Or as many a Sensei has said, "That's not wrong, but it's not what we're doing today." Anyway, pictured above is a proper kouign amann, with a light dusting of sugar on the outside bottom, and nice light and defined layers. They have a characteristic shape (which really should be as distinctive as the shape of a croissant) that comes from how you make them--basically a square of pastry dough put into a cup (like a muffin tin) and the corners are folded in. When we have made them, they usually end up with a small pool of melted butter and sugar in the middle, which this one also had. We've thought of how to get rid of it, but in the end, why would you want to?
In the afternoon, we went to Petaluma and spent some time walking the downtown and a bit of re-charge time at the public library. Then we went for a short dinner picnic to Bodega Bay, the closest bit of coast to where we were. Had a lovely little spot next to the water where many people have built cairns out of small rocks.
Then we zipped back toward Petaluma for the evening's training with Nevelius Sensei, hosted by Richard Strozzi Heckler, who like Robert Nadeau Sensei, was profiled in the book Aikido in America, co-edited by our own John Stone Sensei. Heckler Sensei was, I must say, not as scary as I expected!
The setting was beautiful--set on a hilltop in ranching country, with a bunch of little barn-board buildings, one of which was the dojo. The training area is small, but the appointments are wonderful--there are couches, nice thick rugs, and wood stove. Here's a view approaching the dojo:
Of note for our family, and Evie in particular, was that all the shurbbery in this area (including the big green bush seen on the right above) are huge rosemary plants, many of which are in bloom!
The evening's training was wonderful. They were all packed in like sardines, but everyone made it work, and much carrot salad was consumed, perhaps inspired by Heckler Sensei's request at the beginning to train with open hearts and open minds.
After class, Evie had a question for Nevelius Sensei. He has been talking a lot about the "meeting place"--the place where the interaction happens. You don't want to give ground, because then you are forced to retreat and run away, but you don't want to blast in and cause a destructive collision. Aikido is the third alternative, to find a way to share the space non-destructively. Evie felt that even when she did not give ground with her feet, she was still pulling a bit, forcing the interaction in a way that did not seem to be consistent with what he was exploring. So he gave her some personalized instruction:
But first, a re-cap of yesterday.
After our breakfast pastry (noted in yesterday's post), we packed picnic supplies and headed into San Francisco. We went for a medium-length walk to catch some more pastry, the most notable of which was this:
In the afternoon, we went to Petaluma and spent some time walking the downtown and a bit of re-charge time at the public library. Then we went for a short dinner picnic to Bodega Bay, the closest bit of coast to where we were. Had a lovely little spot next to the water where many people have built cairns out of small rocks.
The setting was beautiful--set on a hilltop in ranching country, with a bunch of little barn-board buildings, one of which was the dojo. The training area is small, but the appointments are wonderful--there are couches, nice thick rugs, and wood stove. Here's a view approaching the dojo:
Of note for our family, and Evie in particular, was that all the shurbbery in this area (including the big green bush seen on the right above) are huge rosemary plants, many of which are in bloom!
The evening's training was wonderful. They were all packed in like sardines, but everyone made it work, and much carrot salad was consumed, perhaps inspired by Heckler Sensei's request at the beginning to train with open hearts and open minds.
After class, Evie had a question for Nevelius Sensei. He has been talking a lot about the "meeting place"--the place where the interaction happens. You don't want to give ground, because then you are forced to retreat and run away, but you don't want to blast in and cause a destructive collision. Aikido is the third alternative, to find a way to share the space non-destructively. Evie felt that even when she did not give ground with her feet, she was still pulling a bit, forcing the interaction in a way that did not seem to be consistent with what he was exploring. So he gave her some personalized instruction:
He seemed to be happy with the progress she made, and she was thrilled to get a tailor-made answer to her question.
Tonight, Aikido of Tamalpais, training with some old friends and some friends we haven't met yet!
Thursday, October 22, 2015
Berkeley re-cap
Last night's class was a 2 hour session with Jan Nevelius hosted by the wonderful Kayla Feder Sensei and her dojo Aikido of Berkeley. It was a big group, and contained a couple of familiar faces from Seattle. One was Glenn Leichman, so Evie got her usual pre-class play time:)
The class was easier for me to process, possibly because I had seen most of the material in Seattle from a spectator's perspective, so it was not quite so new, and I had a sense of the parts of it that I wanted to focus on. Still rather distracted by basic stuff like footwork. Nevelius Sensei is quite explicit that what he is talking about is not in the realm of basics, so that's a big challenge for me. One thing that is interesting about the movement he is aiming for is that in his mind, the parts of you that you move the most at a basic level are the things that move the least at a higher level.
He has talked about the joined body of 2 people as having an axis of rotation. When he came around to demonstrate something to each of us personally, I grabbed him with ryo katadori (grabbing both his shoulders from the front, as if to head-butt him or knee him in the groin) and he spun both of us around the tiniest little point I could imagine--as if we had traded places but no movement had taken place. It was quite a remarkable feeling. I have a lot of notes!
Here's a picture of Evie training with Feder Sensei:
This morning, we had some nice pastries from Fournee bakery, which has so far been our favorite in the Bay Area.
The butter croissant is really quite incredible, with the right amount of salt and it's very nicely browned. The morning bun has great layers, but I prefer a little more crunch from the sugar--it appears that maybe they roll them in superfine sugar. I could not resist the Gruyere roll, because I love naturally leavened breads, and I am a sucker for the toasted cheesy bits that melt off the side.
Today we're headed into San Francisco for some bakeries on the way to Petaluma for more Nevelius Sensei tonight. I found a bakery that Evie did not know about. More known for bread than pastry, it was featured in one of the baking books that influenced me most deeply. Looking forward to trying it.
The class was easier for me to process, possibly because I had seen most of the material in Seattle from a spectator's perspective, so it was not quite so new, and I had a sense of the parts of it that I wanted to focus on. Still rather distracted by basic stuff like footwork. Nevelius Sensei is quite explicit that what he is talking about is not in the realm of basics, so that's a big challenge for me. One thing that is interesting about the movement he is aiming for is that in his mind, the parts of you that you move the most at a basic level are the things that move the least at a higher level.
He has talked about the joined body of 2 people as having an axis of rotation. When he came around to demonstrate something to each of us personally, I grabbed him with ryo katadori (grabbing both his shoulders from the front, as if to head-butt him or knee him in the groin) and he spun both of us around the tiniest little point I could imagine--as if we had traded places but no movement had taken place. It was quite a remarkable feeling. I have a lot of notes!
Here's a picture of Evie training with Feder Sensei:
This morning, we had some nice pastries from Fournee bakery, which has so far been our favorite in the Bay Area.
The butter croissant is really quite incredible, with the right amount of salt and it's very nicely browned. The morning bun has great layers, but I prefer a little more crunch from the sugar--it appears that maybe they roll them in superfine sugar. I could not resist the Gruyere roll, because I love naturally leavened breads, and I am a sucker for the toasted cheesy bits that melt off the side.
Today we're headed into San Francisco for some bakeries on the way to Petaluma for more Nevelius Sensei tonight. I found a bakery that Evie did not know about. More known for bread than pastry, it was featured in one of the baking books that influenced me most deeply. Looking forward to trying it.
A Walkabout
Wednesday was a pleasantly touristy day. We are staying just up the hill from Chez Panisse. In the morning I bopped down to that neighborhood to pick up a croissant from a bakery we have visited before (I think Scott is going to cover pastry and Aikido today so I will stick to walking).
When everyone was awake I somehow convinced them to take a walk to our favorite lunch spot (Vik's Chaat). It was about 8 miles roundtrip. When we left we passed a house with a sign on the garden gate asking the the gate remained closed to keep out the deer. We are high in the Berkeley hills in a densely populated area so I thought it was just a funny sign. Then we looked across the street to see a deer bounding up the hill! I guess they were serious!
I love the architecture and plants here. We wandered along streets we knew and streets we didn't. We stopped in a few shops (books, kitchen, books) and just chatted. We stopped for incredibly delicious gelato (creme fraiche and peanut butter chocolate chunk) just before climbing the hills back to our house.
We all crashed with showers and books for a few hours and then back to a dojo we first visited in 2013. That was when and where Evie saw Jan Sensei for the first time. We spent about a week here last time with Evie training over many classes with the Sensei there (Kayla Feder Sensei). Many of the dojo members remembered her and were so welcoming, it is a lovely, lovely place.
More from other family members, I think. Off to Petaluma!
When everyone was awake I somehow convinced them to take a walk to our favorite lunch spot (Vik's Chaat). It was about 8 miles roundtrip. When we left we passed a house with a sign on the garden gate asking the the gate remained closed to keep out the deer. We are high in the Berkeley hills in a densely populated area so I thought it was just a funny sign. Then we looked across the street to see a deer bounding up the hill! I guess they were serious!
I love the architecture and plants here. We wandered along streets we knew and streets we didn't. We stopped in a few shops (books, kitchen, books) and just chatted. We stopped for incredibly delicious gelato (creme fraiche and peanut butter chocolate chunk) just before climbing the hills back to our house.
We all crashed with showers and books for a few hours and then back to a dojo we first visited in 2013. That was when and where Evie saw Jan Sensei for the first time. We spent about a week here last time with Evie training over many classes with the Sensei there (Kayla Feder Sensei). Many of the dojo members remembered her and were so welcoming, it is a lovely, lovely place.
More from other family members, I think. Off to Petaluma!
Wednesday, October 21, 2015
The Rigors of Travel
I think we are about half way through our trip. We are to the point that I am no longer sure of the date or day of the week until I turn on my computer. We arrived in Berkeley yesterday (Tuesday, Ocober 20) returning to one of our favorite Airbnb places ever. We looked through the guest book and we were last here exactly 2 years ago to the day. Following Jan Sensei keeps those dates consistent! It was in 2013 that Evie first met Jan Nevelius Shihan at the dojo of the amazing Kayla Feder Sensei. We will be returning there tonight, the cycle continues.
Last night we were in San Francisco at another dojo, Evie will write about that. I want to write about the not pretty side of the places we've been.
In Seattle, in Portland and now in San Fransisco I am struck by how many people here are homeless and living on the streets. Many clearly suffer from mental illness, some are just unable to consistently make ends meet. The entire Mission District smells like urine, even outside the swanky law firms and luxury apartments. We have a population of people who are homeless in Madison too. I am constantly frustrated by a system that punishes poverty and thinks the worst of people first. When we went to Voodoo Doughnuts in Portland we were in the epicenter of the social services organization. Block after block of buildings called "hospitality centers" or "shelters" or "soup kitchens;" block after block of huddled groups of people who have not been able to wash or organize what few possessions they have for days.
I feel despair and guilt and an overwhelming urge to talk to these folks. What is their story? Has anyone said "hello" or seen them lately? I give money, we buy food or sometimes just say "good morning." That seems so inadequate. We don't have endless resources, but we do have food to eat and a way to shelter ourselves. How much should we do/give/ask/demand?
In Seattle, staring in 2016, fines will be issued to households that are found to have food waste in with their garbage. Composting and extensive recycling are mandatory. And the streets in Seattle and San Fransisco are filthy with litter and debris. Housing costs in Berkeley have risen so much in the past 5 years that people can no longer afford to move here. Families here start looking at entrance requirements for exclusive high schools when their babies are still in utero.
These things all seem intertwined. California is in year 4 of a major drought. Rice fields were not planted this year, the Sierras have actually risen in height and streams have dried up. Yet in Orange County people still have green lawns in an arid climate and eat almonds by the handful.
In San Fransisco there are people who have not been able to clean themselves in weeks and who beg for every morsel of food they eat.
The destruction of environment and humanity go hand in hand.
We see this when we travel too.
Last night we were in San Francisco at another dojo, Evie will write about that. I want to write about the not pretty side of the places we've been.
In Seattle, in Portland and now in San Fransisco I am struck by how many people here are homeless and living on the streets. Many clearly suffer from mental illness, some are just unable to consistently make ends meet. The entire Mission District smells like urine, even outside the swanky law firms and luxury apartments. We have a population of people who are homeless in Madison too. I am constantly frustrated by a system that punishes poverty and thinks the worst of people first. When we went to Voodoo Doughnuts in Portland we were in the epicenter of the social services organization. Block after block of buildings called "hospitality centers" or "shelters" or "soup kitchens;" block after block of huddled groups of people who have not been able to wash or organize what few possessions they have for days.
I feel despair and guilt and an overwhelming urge to talk to these folks. What is their story? Has anyone said "hello" or seen them lately? I give money, we buy food or sometimes just say "good morning." That seems so inadequate. We don't have endless resources, but we do have food to eat and a way to shelter ourselves. How much should we do/give/ask/demand?
In Seattle, staring in 2016, fines will be issued to households that are found to have food waste in with their garbage. Composting and extensive recycling are mandatory. And the streets in Seattle and San Fransisco are filthy with litter and debris. Housing costs in Berkeley have risen so much in the past 5 years that people can no longer afford to move here. Families here start looking at entrance requirements for exclusive high schools when their babies are still in utero.
These things all seem intertwined. California is in year 4 of a major drought. Rice fields were not planted this year, the Sierras have actually risen in height and streams have dried up. Yet in Orange County people still have green lawns in an arid climate and eat almonds by the handful.
In San Fransisco there are people who have not been able to clean themselves in weeks and who beg for every morsel of food they eat.
The destruction of environment and humanity go hand in hand.
We see this when we travel too.
Berkeley and San Francisco--Day 1
First of all, we forgot to mention our little mishap before leaving Seattle.
This is why you use dishwasher detergent, NOT HAND SOAP!
Also, as part of the expanded Voodoo Doughnut gallery:
Now, back to the correct timeline. Started the day in Yreka (say it why-reka, not yu-reka). The highlight of our hotel experience that night was the orange marmelade at the continental breakfast.
Then many more hours in the car, past numerous olive and almond orchards.
As well as so, so many onions.
We were right at the bottom of Mt Shasta, but we couldn't really see anything because of the fog.
We were thinking of taking the coast route, but decided not to because it added about 8 hours. It's a good thing we didn't go that way, because you can't see anything in this weather!
Got to our wonderful Airbnb house in Berkeley, then drove into San Francisco for dinner at The Chairman.
Crispy tempeh and carrot.
Beef short rib and fennel.
Miso cured tofu.
Then off to class at City Aikido with Nadeau Sensei.
We're getting ready for an around-Berkeley day, and then class with Jan Sensei at Aikido of Berkeley.
Also, as part of the expanded Voodoo Doughnut gallery:
Now, back to the correct timeline. Started the day in Yreka (say it why-reka, not yu-reka). The highlight of our hotel experience that night was the orange marmelade at the continental breakfast.
Then many more hours in the car, past numerous olive and almond orchards.
As well as so, so many onions.
Got to our wonderful Airbnb house in Berkeley, then drove into San Francisco for dinner at The Chairman.
Then off to class at City Aikido with Nadeau Sensei.
We're getting ready for an around-Berkeley day, and then class with Jan Sensei at Aikido of Berkeley.
Monday, October 19, 2015
A rest day
Unfortunately, "rest day" translated into the language of an epic Aikido road trip means "hours of butt-numbing car time." But since we started the day in Portland, how could we resist stopping into the famous local institution known as Voodoo Doughnuts?
Of course at a place with a name like that, they have to have a voodoo doll doughnut:
(note pretzel "pin" stabbing the heart of the voodoo doll).
Before we left Portland, we had to snap a photo of what may be the most awesome thing we saw the entire trip so far:
Apologies to all those who are crazy for pumpkin spice whatever at this time of year, but to put it plainly, y'all are crazy! The good folks at AAA Heating and Cooling are the only ones who seem to know how ridiculous it all is.
One of the others may share some other observations about the drive, but for me it's pretty much a blur.
No Aikido today, but I was reflecting on something that Nevelius Sensei said. He said that it's not so important right now to worry about whether a technique works or not. What matters is that you cultivate something that is worth devoting yourself to for the next 20 years. For him, the relationships are as important as the techniques, which is the basis for his soft technique. As our own teacher tell us often, we have to take care of our training partners as well as ourselves. The softness really matters for those who want to be training that far down the road. We learned that he just had his hip replaced, so I'm guessing that he wishes he had developed his soft style a lot earlier.
I sat out the weekend seminar because I can't process the movement and the concepts at the same time, but I have lots of notes, so I'll ask Evie to help me work through the ideas.
Tomorrow (Tuesday), it's City Aikido in San Francisco, with the eminent Robert Nadeau Shihan. . .
Before we left Portland, we had to snap a photo of what may be the most awesome thing we saw the entire trip so far:
One of the others may share some other observations about the drive, but for me it's pretty much a blur.
No Aikido today, but I was reflecting on something that Nevelius Sensei said. He said that it's not so important right now to worry about whether a technique works or not. What matters is that you cultivate something that is worth devoting yourself to for the next 20 years. For him, the relationships are as important as the techniques, which is the basis for his soft technique. As our own teacher tell us often, we have to take care of our training partners as well as ourselves. The softness really matters for those who want to be training that far down the road. We learned that he just had his hip replaced, so I'm guessing that he wishes he had developed his soft style a lot earlier.
I sat out the weekend seminar because I can't process the movement and the concepts at the same time, but I have lots of notes, so I'll ask Evie to help me work through the ideas.
Tomorrow (Tuesday), it's City Aikido in San Francisco, with the eminent Robert Nadeau Shihan. . .
Sunday, October 18, 2015
Portland Ho!
The first seminar with Nevelius Sensei concluded today. All weekend he's been talking about the interactions that make up Aikido, and how the "meeting place" is an axis around which the whole thing takes place. The magic comes when we understand that the point of contact, such as the grab, is not always the axis around which everything rotates. Once we understand where the axis is, we have a lot more freedom, because it's very hard to make something spin off its axis, but much easier to make it spin on the axis. Anyway, tons of food for thought and for practice.
Here is a short clip of Evie and some of her new extended family in Seattle warming up before class (which is just a way to make "playing" sound more respectable)
We helped move a few mats, and off we went to Portland. On the way there we enjoyed some goodies from the farmers' market across the street from the seminar. Here I am enjoying a very good chocolate tile cookie, with Evie holding a small tub of cultured butter in view. You can get a lot of stuff at farmers' markets here that we can't get at home, like raw milk, butter, and beer. Yup, you can buy beer at the farmers' market. Turns out there are a lot of beer farmers out here.
We are staying at a cute little independent motel in Portland. We decided we were all up for dinner out, so of course we had to go for pizza, so we ended up at The Life of Pie. We all enjoyed our pizza very much--well proportioned and well cooked.
A cool and casual place. We also got a great tip: if there is a grumpy or bored kid, just give him a dough ball to play with:
Problem solved!
Next door was a little ice cream shop. Apparently "the thing" here is ice cream samplers, so we got 4 small scoops of different flavors (3D chocolate, mint chunk, blueberry basil, and brown butter almond brittle) with a bunch of toppings, including the very visible toasted marshmallow. All the flavors were good, but it's not really a great way to taste ice creams. Everything kinda runs together.
Then we walked around the neighborhood for a while to soak in the Portland vibe. Saw lots of great bike lanes, very cute houses, and evidence of what life is like in a truly progressive town:
We've heard rumors of underground goat herds in Madison. . . These folks are letting it all hang out.
On the way back to the motel we had to stop at another famous local ice cream shop, where we tried olive oil, almond brittle with salted ganache, and a taste of one of their Halloween flavors: essence of ghost, which was vanilla sherbet with Laphroig scotch and smoked salt. Good thing they have a "split scoop" option, so the 3 of us could try more than one flavor in a single cone.
Tomorrow, gourmet doughnuts?
Here is a short clip of Evie and some of her new extended family in Seattle warming up before class (which is just a way to make "playing" sound more respectable)
We helped move a few mats, and off we went to Portland. On the way there we enjoyed some goodies from the farmers' market across the street from the seminar. Here I am enjoying a very good chocolate tile cookie, with Evie holding a small tub of cultured butter in view. You can get a lot of stuff at farmers' markets here that we can't get at home, like raw milk, butter, and beer. Yup, you can buy beer at the farmers' market. Turns out there are a lot of beer farmers out here.
We are staying at a cute little independent motel in Portland. We decided we were all up for dinner out, so of course we had to go for pizza, so we ended up at The Life of Pie. We all enjoyed our pizza very much--well proportioned and well cooked.
Next door was a little ice cream shop. Apparently "the thing" here is ice cream samplers, so we got 4 small scoops of different flavors (3D chocolate, mint chunk, blueberry basil, and brown butter almond brittle) with a bunch of toppings, including the very visible toasted marshmallow. All the flavors were good, but it's not really a great way to taste ice creams. Everything kinda runs together.
We've heard rumors of underground goat herds in Madison. . . These folks are letting it all hang out.
On the way back to the motel we had to stop at another famous local ice cream shop, where we tried olive oil, almond brittle with salted ganache, and a taste of one of their Halloween flavors: essence of ghost, which was vanilla sherbet with Laphroig scotch and smoked salt. Good thing they have a "split scoop" option, so the 3 of us could try more than one flavor in a single cone.
Tomorrow, gourmet doughnuts?
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